A peer-reviewed clinical study has shown that Swedish company Skinome’s water-free retinal concentrate combining 0.1% retinal and 10% azelaic acid tackles blemish-prone skin, including redness, skin texture, surface irregularities and pores.

The randomized, vehicle-controlled split-face study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found 100% reported smoother, more even skin texture, 95% reported calmer skin, 82% reported less oiliness, 78% reported smaller and less severe pimples, and 74% reported fewer pimples.

The study of 19 women and four men aged 16–49 (mean 28; Fitzpatrick I–IV) saw each participant apply the active concentrate to one side of the face and a matched vehicle to the other, so every participant served as their own control.

The study is the second peer-reviewed clinical study of Skinome’s water-free retinal concentrate technology.

Last October, a separate clinical study published in Cosmetics showed significant improvements in pigmentation, fine lines, skin texture and pore visibility after six weeks of using a 0.1% retinal concentrate.

Together, the two studies support a formulation principle that challenges how highly active skin care is traditionally made: instead of storing unstable active ingredients in a water-based cream for months, Skinome keeps retinal in a water-free concentrate and mixes it with moisturiser immediately before application.

“We formulate retinal differently because retinal is difficult,” said Ulf Åkerström, vice president and chief innovation officer, Skinome.

“It is highly effective, but it is also highly unstable. Instead of asking how much retinal we can put into a product, we have focused on how much is actually left when it reaches the skin,” he added.

“These two clinical studies are an important validation of that approach.”

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Source: Personal Care Magazine (https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/)

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